Top 10 most frequent questions and answers
The pull strap should be in the centre of the awning.  This means when you go to pull the awning out there is even force distributed to the arm hardware on each side allowing the awning to roll out smoothly.  The error often seen, is that the pull strap is down at the cam-lock end and if used in that position, uneven force is exerted and the awning will pull out at this end, but the other end (L/H) stays where it is and jams.  This can result in damaged to the arm hardware.  Also when rolling up the awning gently pull the strap toward the centre, spiralling the strap around the roller tube.  This will avoid a lump in the vinyl if the strap is rolled up in a straight line.
Awning’s seem to be the area of most concern to Caravan and Motorhome owners.  Awnings require additional items that don’t usually come with the RV when purchased, such as curved centre rafters.  These are required to put some pitch to the roof to stop water pooling in the event of wet weather.  These are fitted depending on length of awning, but usually something like 8ft-11ft one Rafter, 12ft- 16ft two rafters, 17ft – 22ft three rafters and over 22ft 4 rafters.
We recommend the use of ‘Stainless Steel Awning Clips’. These are fitted at the end of the roller tube and lock into the pull strap groove. They have a loop on the end to secure your double corner ropes.  These should be used each time you roll out your awning so you don’t get caught out by unexpected wind gusts or stormy weather.The position as shown will place the top seam (1st Spline) at about 11 o’clock.   Therefore this seam won’t leak through the stitching and water will run off the roof. The valance, (2nd Spline) hangs vertically, and the pull strap groove which is where you hang your annexe wall or privacy screen is about three o’clock.  Over extending the awning will create a gutter that will collect water which can pool very quickly and do tremendous damage in a very short time. Never over extend your awning!
We use and recommend ‘Peggy Peg’. These innovative screw in pegs take the stress out of securing a multitude of items.  Used in conjunction with their 17mm combo tool with hand adaptor these pegs can be screwed into the ground using your cordless drill making insertion & removal an easy task.  Five times lighter than the equivalent metal peg (Weight is always an issue), with ten times stronger grip.
There are a few solutions the simplest being a de-flapper which is clamped to the awning fabric and secured to the secondary rafter. These come in 2 versions. One to suit a full size caravan and one to suit Pop Top Caravans which require a longer Velcro Strap to reach the horizontal rafter.  The best solution is to buy and install an AFK kit which is an additional rafter kit (pair) that goes from the van to the roller tube and clamps the fabric for the full length.  These need to be measured as there are 3 sizes available, 2100mm to 2200mm, 2200mm to 2300mm then 2300mm to 2400mm.  This distance is measured from the sail track on the van at the first spline groove on the roller tube.  Additional benefit with the AFK kit is they have a sail track groove on the bottom which allows the installation of privacy screens or Annexe Walls.  Ask us for more details.


Legally you can’t connect a 15Amp Caravan lead to a 10Amp household power point.  There are two options available for you. Option 1.  Get a licensed electrician to install a proper 15Amp Power Point at your house, he will make sure that everything is compliant, however you can’t take it with you when you travel.  Option 2.  Purchase an ‘AMPFIBIAN’ which is a portable device and the second legal option for you.  They have two versions. The first is DIY Caravan Adaptor which has a 10Amp Circuit Breaker built in and this will isolate the house from the van if the power requirements in the van exceed 10Amp.  These are not water proof and should be used under cover.  Being portable you can take it with you when travelling.  I’ll give a couple of examples of where you might find a use for them.  Some showgrounds make themselves available in busy times or for special events and normally are only able to supply 10Amp Power or you may be travelling and a relative invites you to stay at their house.  Owning an ‘Ampfibian’ will allow you to do this legally and in the knowledge that their house circuit is protected.    The second device is the ‘Caravan Power Adaptor’ which is Fully Waterproof and as well as the 10Amp circuit breaker also has an Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker for added protection, making it the most popular unit for this application. Call us for more detail.

DIY Power Adaptor

Caravan Power Adaptor

Yes, absolutely they need to be clean and clear of dust and leaves etc. for them to be able to produce maximum input.  To do this of course you would need to access them.  We sell collapsible ladders that would fit the bill. These ladders utilize innovative ‘Telescopic’ technology and a smart automatic locking mechanism.

The TXP Telescopic Ladder Range are lightweight, compact and strong. All TXP Telescopic Ladders feature the “SURE LOCK” system which prevents the ladder from contracting while in use. From the contracted position simply pull the rungs to extend your ladder up to 3.2m high; or any height in between!

TL320 – 3.2m

VERTICAL Extended height         = 320cm’s

Contracted height                     = 71cm’s

Lay Flat height                          = 80mm

Width                                       = 52cm’s

Step Width                                = 36mm

Max Load                                  = 150kg’s

Weight (approx.)                       = 10.3Kgs

Colour = RED – Comes with storage bag.  This ladder would allow you to access your panels for cleaning even whilst travelling and of course that is

precisely when you need your panels to perform at their best.  Call now for price and availability!

Ladder Collapsed

Ladder Extended

In our many years of practical experience the best value for money and best performing toilet waste tank additive is a product we’re proud to be associated with and that’s ‘Odour-B-Gone’.  We have found this product to be extremely popular with our customers and it is a very versatile and inexpensive product.  It is available in packs of 20 or 40, the 40pack the most popular and most economical.  For the normal cassette toilet tank you only need 1/2 a tablet, breaking them is easy, just hold a full tablet in one hand and strike it with another and you will finds it will break fairly easily.  It doesn’t need to be exact so just pop it into your clean waste tank and add a cup of hot water.  This will not only deodorize the tank but will also decalcify the tank as well.

20 Pack

Box of 40

Thanks for asking, our experience suggests the following sequence for a Thetford 402 Cassette Toilet. Other brands and models may vary in mechanism removal but the principals are the same.   When you are finished your holiday you should clean out your cassette tank thoroughly. Not many people have been shown how to do this properly.

After emptying and flushing thoroughly, sit the tank on the floor and remove the swivel spout by rotating fully.


Swivel Spout around

Pull UP & Remove

To remove the Mechanism, rotate the arrow shown from the solid circle on the top of the tank to the open circle.

Then pull UP & OUT as shown in the photos below.

Once the items are removed you will have much better access to clean the tank to make sure all waste and paper are removed. Lubricate all the seals as shown with silicone grease or silicone spray, even olive oil if you don’t have silicone product. Don’t forget the seal in the spout cap, if you have a spray it won’t be difficult, if not smear product on the spout and it will transfer to the cap seal.

Definitely DO NOT USE ‘Vaseline’ which is a petroleum jelly and will damage the seals.   Stand the tank up against a wall to allow the tank to AIR DRY for about 48 Hours.

Then you can reassemble the lubricated spout & mechanism back in place, and store until required.  The air drying stops the development of odour causing bacteria which will stop the tank from developing a smell. 

Anodes are only used in ‘Suburban’ Brand imported American hot water systems.   Models come in LP Gas Only and LP Gas & 240Volt models, usually 23litre capacity.   The ‘Sacrificial Anode’ protects the water storage tank from electrolysis and will degrade to a white powder as it is consumed.  This will settle into the bottom of the tank and needs to be flushed out when changing out the Anode. There are a few important things to remember before attempting to change it.

For both models the procedure is identical except for the requirement to completely isolate the 240 Volt prior to draining the water out on the Gas/Electric Model.

Turn off the gas supply, switch the unit off.  If the unit has been on you would be wise to wait until the internal water temperature has cooled sufficiently so as not to scald anyone during the draining of the tank.

Once cooled, switch off the 12 volt water pump, disconnect the town/city water hose then open a hot water tap/faucet to relieve any pressure and leave this tap/faucet open. Then open the pressure relief valve on the hot water unit (External).

Using a suburban anode/element tube spanner (available from Coastline RV) undo the hexagon nut on the face of the hot water unit, unwind and remove the Anode.  The water will then drain from the tank. Check the anodes condition and replace if required.  Flush out the tank until all residue of the anode is gone and the water is clear. Reinsert the new Anode and tighten firmly.  Then you will need to fill the tank with water which will take some time and will be evident when the tank is full by the water exiting the pressure relief valve. 

When this occurs close the pressure relief valve and allow the water to run through the internal tap/faucet until no air is evident in the water flow.  Turn this tap/faucet off.  The system will now be full and you can turn on the LP Gas and or the 240 Volt power to the electrical element in the hot water.

Your system is now ready to use.  Periodical checks of at least twice a year is recommended as the degradation of the anode is affected by the various water quality used when travelling.  High mineral content and high saline content will degrade the anode faster.  Here are some photos of the hot water unit itself and the tool, and anodes in their various stages of degradation.

Anode Rod

Tube Spanner

Insert Anode

Location of Anode